Pag Island

Pag is one of Croatia’s largest islands and certainly one of its most distinctive. Approached from the mainland, the rocky, almost treeless eastern side presents a striking lunar‑like landscape, shaped over centuries by the powerful Bura wind and salt carried from the sea. In contrast, the western and southern areas reveal a far greener character, with olive groves, pines and sheltered coves. The island also offers over 270 km of beaches, many with shingle or fine pebbles and exceptionally clear water — among the loveliest in northern Dalmatia. 

Pag is one of Croatia’s sunniest islands, but the Bura is equally influential: when it blows, the wind carries sea spray and salt inland, settling on the hardy meadows where the island’s sheep graze. This natural process is central to the flavour of Paški sir, Pag’s celebrated sheep’s‑milk cheese, regarded as one of the finest cheeses produced in Croatia and prized internationally for its distinctive, herb‑and‑sea‑salt character. Pag is also renowned for its hand‑made lace, a craft nurtured by the Benedictine nuns of Pag Town from the 15th century onwards and today recognised as part of Croatia’s cultural heritage.

At the heart of the island, Pag Town combines history with traditional craftsmanship. Its sights include the Benedictine Monastery, the Rector’s Palace, several fine churches, and the remains of the old town walls — including the well‑preserved Skrivanat Tower, the only surviving defensive tower of the original nine that once protected the town. The Benedictine Monastery of St Margarita still preserves the tradition of baking baškotina, an aromatic twice‑baked bread that has been produced here for centuries.

Pag’s coastline alternates between quiet family beaches and livelier spots. While many bays offer peaceful swimming, Novalja — one of the island’s larger settlements — has become known for Zrće Beach, Croatia’s famous “Ibiza‑style” party shore, lined with open‑air clubs that attract international DJs and festival‑goers in summer. For those seeking stillness, smaller coves around Šimuni, Povljana and the “Moon Beach” landscapes near Metajna provide a very different atmosphere.

Just across the bridge on the mainland lies the small historic town of Nin, well worth a visit for its sandy beaches, Roman temple, Salt Museum, and the tiny Church of the Holy Cross, sometimes described as the “smallest cathedral in the world”. Nin is also noted for its medicinal mud, traditionally used for therapeutic treatments.

Pag may appear austere at first glance, but its natural drama, culinary traditions, deep craftsmanship and contrasts — from the serene to the exuberant — make it one of Croatia’s most fascinating islands.